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Tourisme: au Japon, les mini-croisières en train de luxe font recette

Son nom: "Twilight Express Mizukaze". Le nec plus ultra des luxueux trains qui sillonnent le Japon est entré en service samedi avec quelques voyageurs privilégiés, prêts à débourser des milliers d'euros pour une escapade ferroviaire


Exploité par la compagnie JR West, il est parti d'Osaka avec une trentaine de passagers, tirés au sort tant la demande était forte, en route vers le sud et ses paysages bucoliques. Pour les couples les plus fortunés, une suite propose le confort d'un hôtel cinq étoiles, avec lits douillets et salle de bains en marbre. Prix du séjour: 2,4 millions de yens (près de 20.000 euros) pour un aller-retour sur trois jours.

Le "Mizukaze", qui signifie "vent frais" en japonais, arbore un style opulent Art Déco et une silhouette désuette en hommage à son ancêtre, le "Twilight Express", mis au rebut en 2015 du fait de son grand âge.


Mariée la veille, Ayaka Kobayashi, 39 ans, s'est offert ce plaisir avec son mari pour leur lune de miel. "Je suis absolument ravie de voyager dans ce train historique, je veux savourer ce moment spécial dans un endroit unique", a-t-elle confié à l'agence de presse Jiji avant le départ, sous le regard d'admirateurs, petits et grands, dépités de rester à quai.

Les Japonais vouent une passion au rail, dans un pays offrant un réseau extrêmement dense, efficace et varié. Les trains-couchettes étaient jadis nombreux dans l'archipel, mais ils ont quasiment disparu avec l'arrivée du TGV japonais, le "Shinkansen", pionnier mondial du transport ferroviaire ultra-rapide né il y a un demi siècle.

'Une fois dans ma vie'


"Tout a été repensé ex nihilo, ce qui a donné naissance à une nouvelle génération" de trains, explique le photojournaliste Kageri Kurihara, spécialiste du sujet. "Les compagnies essayent de montrer ce dont elles sont capables quand elles n'ont pas de contraintes. +Regardez ce que nous pouvons offrir !+, clament-elles, loin de l'image des wagons-lits exigus et si inconfortables".


Début mai, un autre train au nom tout aussi poétique, le "Shiki-Shima" ou "Ile des quatre saisons", quittait Tokyo pour une grande boucle passant par l'île septentrionale de Hokkaido. Dîner préparé par de grands chefs, cocktail à siroter dans un piano-bar baigné par la chaude lumière d'une (fausse) cheminée: l'expérience se veut inoubliable, et malgré la coquette somme (950.000 yens par personne pour un duplex), les clients sont au rendez-vous: réservations complètes jusqu'à mars 2018 !

La facture a certes été élevée pour la société JR East qui l'exploite (10 milliards de yens) mais, si les profits sont limités en raison du faible nombre de passagers, l'enjeu en terme d'image vaut le pari.

Avant eux, Kyushu Railway s'était aussi lancé sur le créneau haut de gamme, proposant depuis 2013 sur l'île méridionale et rurale de Kyushu le "Nanatsuboshi" (sept étoiles), un train à sept voitures et 14 suites en lambris. "Cette tendance survient au moment où de plus en plus touristes visitent le Japon", qui espère en accueillir 40 millions en 2020, année des jeux Olympiques de Tokyo, souligne M. Kurihara.

Et si l'économie nippone n'est pas aussi florissante qu'il y a quelques années, de nombreux Japonais sont prêts à s'offrir une escapade à bord d'une des versions locales du mythique Orient Express.



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